Roving Yarn: 2018

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Raigad fort situated in Mahad, Raigad district of Maharashtra; is a fort seized by Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj in 1656.This fort was initially built by Chandrarao More in the early 1030 and later it was reconstructed by Hiroji Indulkar. Earlier this fort was known as Rairi fort, but Shivaji Maharaj renovated and expanded the fort and named it as Raigad (The King's Fort). As this fort is virtually impregnable to enemies, it was made as the capital of Shivaji Maharaj's maratha kingdom in 1674. It is a monument of his prophetic vision of Hindavi Swaraj. The fort rises 820 metres above the sea level and is located in the Sahyadri mountain range. Being situated comparatively near the sea and Mahad being in reach, while Mumbai, Pune and Satara llocated at almost similar distances from this fort, Raigad enjoyed a strategic position. Moreover, it was a crucial link between Deccan Plateau and Coastal Maharashtra. The fort is also surrounded by Kaal River to its north and east, while Gandhari river flows at its west.

Not only that, at clear skies, Rajgad and Torna fort can be seen at the East while Pratapgad, Vasota and Makarandgad at its South. In fact, this fort was the chief of all these surrounding forts. During the 16th century, people used to call this fort as "Rashivata" or "Tanas". It was also called as "Nandadeep" due to its shape of tall oil lamp tower. Raigad was, in fact, known by 15 different names in history. Rairi, Islamgad, Nandadeep, Jambudweep, Tanas, Rashivata, Badenur, Raigiri, Rajgiri, Bhivgad, Reddi, Shivlanka, Rahir and 'Gibraltar of the East'. The fort was initially used to keep prisoners during the Nizamshahi rule.

It has 1737 steps which reach the fort. There is also a ropeway and tramway to reach the fort top. This fort was looted and destroyed by the British after it was captured in 1818 and this led to the major destruction of the fort due to heavy artillery of the British.

This fort has witnessed two most important and historical events in the life of Shivaji Maharaj - his Coronation and his disastrous death. Shivaji Maharaj became the King of the newly formed Maratha Kingdom after a struggle of more than 300 years. He took blessings of Bhavani Mata of Pratapgad on 19.05.1674 and offered a Golden Umbrella (Chatra) worth Rs. 56,000/- to the Goddess before the Ceremony. This Ceremony was held on 06.06.1674. On 03.04.1680, Shivaji Maharaj passed away on this fort, which was the most devastating moment for the Maratha Kingdom. On 16.02.1681, Sambhaji was crowned as the King of Maratha Empire. Aurangzeb had his conquest for Raigad in 1684. Finally after a lethal battle till 03.11.1689, Mughals captured Raigad and renamed it as Islamgad. Marathas regained it on 05.06.1733. Though, today the fort is in ruins, it still has an energy and aura of its our great King Shivaji Maharaj.

How to conquer this Fort?

Have my own vehicle !

The best way to reach this fort is by personal vehicle. You will get many ways to reach here, but the route from Mahad will make your trip scenic and soothing to eyes. You can also reach Mahad by ST buses and paid jeeps from nearby villages. But having your personal vehicle will always make you own the nature. Raigad is roughly around 100 Kms from Mumbai and around 125 Kms from Pune. It being in the midst of both the famous cities of Maharashtra, people like to visit this fort often. I visited Raigad, starting the journey from Mumbai. Hence, the route from Mumbai is provided below in maps. This route includes first reaching to Panvel from Mumbai. Taking exit from Mumbai - Pandharpur road onto Bengaluru - Mumbai Highway. Continue on this highway till Khalapur Toll. Once Khalapur toll is crossed, take an exit to continue onto Khopoli - Pali road. Exit this road, and hop onto Mumbai - Goa Highway (also known as Panvel - Kochi - Kanyakumari Highway). Taking left after Betkar Maharaj Temple will lead you on Gharoshi Road. Now a very important left is oncoming at Tamahane gaon which will take you on Pachad Road. Continuing on this road till Pachad gaon will ultimately lead you to Raigad fort. It takes around 10 mins to read Raigad from Pachad gaon via Raigad road. This route is common even if you have to trek the fort. The uphill trekking starts here itself and vehicle cannot go beyond.

Public Transport is what I like !

Many buses and shared vehicles drop you to Mahad from Mumbai. Or one can easily reach Mahad by ST buses. Once at Mahad, paid vehicles like tum-tum or jeeps will take you either to fort's trail (for trekking) or at ropeway stop (for ropeway). Raigad is situated 30 Km to the north of Mahad. There are also direct buses to Mahad from Mumbai Central, Mumbai. But travelling by public transport will make you have a proper scheduled time management so that you don't tend to miss the last available transport facilities at the places you're in.

Also you will get a rail route to land here. Mangaon station of Konkan Railways is the stop that you should be looking for to reach Raigad fort. Once you reach Mangaon railway station, similar is the case for travelling towards fort. You will get many paid vehicles that can drop you at Raigad's trail or at the Ropeway halt.

My legs are my wheels !

If you want to ascend this fort all on your own by trekking, then you will have to reach the Raigad's trail at the base. Having 1737 steps that leads to the fort top, it takes around 2-3 hours' trekking to reach the top. Trekking is more scenic and adventurous during monsoon. Trails are made such that they are visible even in bushy rainy season. Being a normal grade trek, even children can ascend the fort very easily. But trekking often leads to thirsty throat so don't forget to carry enough water at the fort top because your quench can only be satiated by you. Saying enough about the requirements, only trekking can make one realise the serene and tranquil mother nature. Once at the fort, you're anyway going to be amazed by the historical importance the fort will demonstrate.

What to look for at Raigad?

Shivaji Maharaj Samadhi : The demise of the King had happened on Raigad fort. His funeral was done at this very place. This place is the main attraction on the fort.

Takmak Tok : It was an execution point used by Shivaji Raje's administration to punish prisoners and criminals to death by throwing them off from here. The rock face inclines down over 1200 feet and presents a tremendous view of the Sahyadri hills and its dropping crevasses and overfolding edges.

Nagarkhana : Nagarkhana serves as the entrance to the Rajdarbar (Royal Court) at Raigad fort. It was made in front of the Sinhasan (King's throne) of Maharaj, where currently the grant Shivaji Memorial is made. The sound so reverberates here that even the tearing of paper can be heard from some 50 meters.

Mahadarwaja : Built over 350 years earlier, this main entrance is majestic. A steep climb of nearly 1450 steps leaves your stamina too challenging to climb this. Well nowadays, you can also reach to the inside of the fort directly from Ropeway, which is on the other side of the Mahadarwaja.

Bazar peth of Raigad fort: This was the marketplace of the earlier years when there used to be mavlas on the fort. There were 22 shops in total in this market on the fort. This place is dry and dusty and only the sections for various shops could be traced out at the moment.

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HOW IT GOT IT'S NAME?

Previously named as Kondhana after the sage Kaundinya, the fort had been the site of many battles, most notably the Battle of Sinhagad in 1670 of Marathas. The Kaundinyeshwar temple coupled with the caves and carvings indicate that the fort had probably been built around 2000 years ago. Initially it was seized by Muhammad bin Tughlaq from the Koli in 1328 AD. Perched on an isolated cliff of the Bhuleshwar range in the Sahyadri Mountains, the fort is situated on a hill about 760 metres above ground and 1,312 metres above mean sea level. This fort saw attacks by Mughals in 1662, 1663 and 1665.

One of the most famous battles on Sinhgad was fought by Tanaji Malusare, a general of Chhatrapati Shivaji of the Maratha Empire in order to recapture the fort on March 1670. Tanaji Malusare, abandoned his son's wedding to meet with the summons of Maharaj Shivaji to conquer the fort. A steep cliff leading to the fort was scaled in the dead of the night with the help of a tamed monitor lizard named "Yashwanti", colloquially known as a ghorpad. Thereafter, A fierce battle ensued between Tanaji and his men versus the Mughal army headed by "Udaybhan Singh Rathod", a Rajput sardar who had control of the fort. Tanaji Malusare lost his life, but his brother "Suryaji" took over and captured the Kondana fort, now known as Sinhagad.

There is an anecdote that upon hearing of Tanaji's death, Chhatrapati Shivaji expressed his remorse with the words, "Gad aala, pan Sinha gela" - "The Fort is captured, but the Lion was lost". According to some the name sinhagad predates this event. A bust of Tanaji Malusare was established on the fort in the memory of his contribution to the battle.

The most preferred time to visit this fort is during the monsoon and in the early winter. The scenes in monsoon are much delightful to the eyes that are worth the memories taking back home. Winter is the season when you can witness the actual pride of this fort with its huge form allowing you to gaze it from a distance, which is not possible in monsoon. Also the sunrise and sunset can be enjoyed in winter along with the gradient sky and wild territories.

A view from Kalyan Darwaja - Sinhagad

HOW TO CONQUER SINHAGAD?

Personal Transport
People often mention this fort worth visiting from Pune, which is very nearby. Well, I happen to visit Sinhagad by car. I was travelling from Mumbai along with my friends, all from Mumbai. We started the trip from Thane at 6 in the morning. Although, it was Sunday, I had to getup even before 'early morning' to make up to this trip. Gathering at Thane was quite comfortable to all as it was easily accessible to all my friends.

It took around 3 hours for us to reach Pune City. Sinhagad is still 30 to 35 Kms away from this City. So make sure you have your breakfast in the city itself, because ‘city food’ is not an option at the mountaintop.

Travelling towards the fort, we were stuck in the crawling traffic of Pune. It took more than an hour to clear the city and enter the forest area. The roads to this fort are very confusing and you can be misguided very easily. Follow maps with accuracy if you’re visiting this fort for the first time. Also make sure to confirm the maps with the residents of the region you’re travelling through.

For great adventure and less perplexed travel to reach this fort (from Mumbai), note down the following guidance carefully, as the map may guide you and change your route according to the current traffic, but this route will take you to the fort with ease. While coming from Mumbai and when in Pune take exit at Warje flyover and take right from below the flyover onto NDA Road. Later take left turn at Kudja Khadakwasla link road and then right turn at Sinhagad Road. Now the main trick starts here. When on Sinhagad Road notice HP petrol pump on the way and don't take right (❌ Panshet Road) after the petrol pump. Go straight onto Donje Gaon road ✅ . This road splits into two, going straight will take you to 'Sinhagad Paytha Road' which makes you trek to the fort. You cannot take your car to the mountain top by this road. Going with the left split will take you to 'Sinhagad Ghat Road' which leads you to the mountain top and on this road you'll be asked for toll. Ultimately both the routes (ghat road and paytha road) meet at Pune Darwaja of the fort.

Reaching this fort from Pune is not much of a big deal. You can travel via Sinhagad Road and then catch Sinhagad Ghat Road to join the above route.

Once at the base you’ll be asked to pay Rs. 50 as toll (or entry fee) for the Fort. For two wheelers it’s just Rs. 20. If you don’t get such toll on your way, you need to correct your route, as you’re not on the right path. Well travelling through these roads in Monsoon could be little tricky as the roads are slippery & muddy and also have too much potholes. You cannot go through this ghat with more than 20kmph of speed, even in winter days. It’s that bad! But the drive to the fort is scenic. Sometimes the policemen at the toll gate check the vehicle for liquor, as liquor is banned at this place.

After a tiring 1 hour journey from base to the mountaintop, we took a sigh of relief. Well now it was a task to find a place to park your vehicle, if you’re visiting here on a weekend. Majority of the vehicles here are parked on the descending road from the hill as the parking area is too small and can accumulate some 75 - 100 cars only. Considering this, you need to reach here around 10 am to ‘safe park’ your vehicle.

Public Transport
Local buses are available every hour from Pune city to Aatekar Vasti (आटेकर वस्ती) . Once you reach Aatekar Vasti, you can either walk to the top or take a shared taxi. Shared taxi and auto services are available from the base to the top of the mountain.
Public transport is not reliable at these places, as they dump more than 10-15 people in a jeep and parcel you to the fort that too through such uneven roads where even walking is quite tiresome. If you're making a plan to visit this fort and you don't have a vehicle, it would be wise to book some online vehicles, which are easily available these days.

My Legs are my Wheels
Trekkers and adventure lovers hit this place all with their feet doing the job for their body. The trek to this fort is mostly steep and straight up. The trek involves a one-way walk of 2.7 km (1.6 miles) over which the walker gains about 600 m (1950 feet) in elevation. Its a trek of moderate difficulty and a little risky, muddy and slippery during monsoon. To keep up the fire burning for trekking, you can visit this place without much difficulties. Experienced trekkers can climb the mountain in around 40 - 50 mins. But novice ones and beginners need to be cautious and to successfully climb the fort it could take around 2 hours for the same. The cold breeze will always motivate you and make you enthusiast to have fun and enjoy the nature while climbing the mountain.

FOR THE FOODIE!
The place is accommodated with many villagers who offer you authentic natural desi food. Pitla Bhakri (पिटलं भाकरी) is the staple food and is offered to all the visitors. Maharashtrians very well know the dish, but if you're hearing this for the first time, you should not miss this dish.

Pitla Bhakri - Thick gram flour spiced curry with traditional Jowar (Sorghum or new quinoa) bread

Kanda Bhajji, Guava, Sliced Mangoes, Berries.

Apart from proper Maharashtrian authentic lunch, you can also munch around with other chewing options like boiled masala (spiced) corn, boiled salted groundnuts, berries, popcorn and some other stimulators for salivary glands. Crispy kanda-bhajji (Onions coated in seasoned batter and deep-fried) will make you savour the tastebuds in the natural ambience. Food sellers also provide you with mats to sleep around and laze in the glazing sun on the fort. People with families and school trips often visit here for historic importance of the place. The fort also houses a television tower of Doordarshan for broadcasting local TV signals. Currently, Non-Vegetarian food, Partying including alcoholic beverages and smoking is banned on the fort

WHAT TO LOOK FOR AT SINHAGAD?

Tanaji's Tomb

This place is mainly visited to embrace the bravery of Tanaji Malusare and relive the days of the past. There are two gates to enter the fort, the Kalyan Darwaza and the Pune Darwaza which are positioned at the south east and north-east ends respectively. The fort was also strategically located at the centre of a string of other Maratha occupied forts such as Rajgad Fort, Purandar Fort and Torna Fort. Points not to miss at this fort are -

Tanaji Kada - It is told that this is the place from where Tanaji Malusare scaled this fort with the help of 'Yashwanti'
Tanaji's Tomb - Built at the place where the warrior sacrificed his life for the conquer of this very fort.
Kade Lot - It is said that in olden days the prisoners were thrown off from this cliff as punishment instead of hanging.
Hawa Point - This is the spot located in the North West of the Sinhagad fort and must visit spot if one visits this fort. The force of the wind blowing at this point is strong enough to make anyone stumble or at least difficult to walk.
Dev Taake - A reservoir of sweet water that stores water naturally coming down from the mountain. Though it was meant to be edible, I found it to be littered by tourists. Not a thing to entertain when you witness it yourself.
Kalyan Darwaaza - It is said that after conquering the fort, Shivaji Maharaj entered Sinhagad from this door. He realised that something sad has occurred and came to know that the warrior was no more. He was in tears at this very Kalyan Darwaja. This door also faces towards Kalyan (Not Kalyan of Thane District, Pune has its own Kalyan Village), hence it is named so.
Zu Thur Buruj - One of the prime watch towers of the fort which were once manned with cannons to protect invasions. These watchtowers were an important reason for Tanaji to have chosen the unpredictable path of invasion, via Tanaji Kada.
Udaybhan Rathod Mrityu Sthal (उदय भान राठोड मृत्यु स्थळ) - Place where Udaybhan was killed by Mama Shelar.

Other nearby places to visit include Khadakwasla, Varasgaon Dam, Torana Fort, Rajgad Fort and Panshet. Expenditure for two people to spend a day here is around Rs. 1000/- to Rs. 1500/-. Lokmanya Tilak resided in this fort during the freedom struggle of India against the British. There is a memorial with a cannon on both sides that marks the fact. Also a view of a huge reservoir held by one of the largest artificial structure, Khadakvasla Dam. Shore line near the Khadakvasla dam is an evening hangout spot for most of the locals and tourists. This place is an ideal place for photographers to capture the history of Empires that ruled the country. Many natural macros and landscapes are very appealing to eyes and can be attractive to photography enthusiasts.

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New Gallery 2018/1/24Dev TaakeWater tank at Sinhagad is the natural source of water. Once in the olden days, it was the source of water which all the mavlas used to drink. It is said that this tank never drains out. focallength 46flash 16cameramake Canonheight 2730fnumber 5exposuretime 0.004orientation 1camerasoftware Pixlroriginaldate 1/1/0001 6:00:00 AMwidth 4095cameramodel Canon EOS 1300DChhatrapati Shivaji MaharajChhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj sculpture found at Sinhagad Fort. focallength 55flash 16cameramake Canonheight 2730fnumber 5.6exposuretime 0.0125orientation 1camerasoftware Pixlroriginaldate 1/1/0001 6:00:00 AMwidth 4095cameramodel Canon EOS 1300DThe Mavlas of the fortThis guy is the young guide who informed us the significance of the fort with a short story of 15 mins. He also sang 'Povada' (Shivaji's glory song) to us. focallength 33flash 16cameramake Canonheight 3456fnumber 4.5exposuretime 0.0166orientation 1camerasoftware Pixlroriginaldate 1/1/0001 6:00:00 AMwidth 5184cameramodel Canon EOS 1300DKalyan DarwajaThe south-east positioned door to enter the fort. Kalyan Darwaja is named after the village it reaches at south-east dirction of the Pune district. It is not named after Kalyan of Thane. focallength 18flash 16cameramake Canonheight 3456fnumber 6.3exposuretime 0.01orientation 1camerasoftware Pixlroriginaldate 1/1/0001 6:00:00 AMwidth 5184cameramodel Canon EOS 1300DPune DarwajaOut of the two doors (darwaja) to enter the fort, Pune darwaja is positioned at the north east end of the fort. focallength 18flash 16cameramake Canonheight 2730fnumber 6.3exposuretime 0.008orientation 1camerasoftware Pixlroriginaldate 1/1/0001 6:00:00 AMwidth 4095cameramodel Canon EOS 1300DTofkhanaThis place was occupied with all the arms and ammunitions of the Maratha army. But watching the scribbles on such monuments is a shame on humankind. focallength 18flash 16cameramake Canonheight 3456fnumber 6.3exposuretime 0.01orientation 1camerasoftware Pixlroriginaldate 1/1/0001 6:00:00 AMwidth 5184cameramodel Canon EOS 1300DTofkhana BoardSuch Boards are displayed at all the points on Sinhagad to make the visitors well aware about the Indian history and guide you to the fort's significance. focallength 44flash 16cameramake Canonheight 2730fnumber 8exposuretime 0.0062orientation 1camerasoftware Pixlroriginaldate 1/1/0001 6:00:00 AMwidth 4095cameramodel Canon EOS 1300D

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Rajmachi - the name itself means the fort in the plateau (machi). It is one of the many historical forts in the mighty Sahyadri mountain ranges popularly known as Western Ghats. Historically, Rajmachi Fort was a strategic fort to control Borghat (the Ghat between Khopoli and Khandala on the Mumbai - Pune route) which was a historical trade route. It was in the possession of the Angre family, the head of the Maratha Navy in the 18th century. It consists of twin fortresses Shriwardhan Ballekilla and Manoranjan Balekilla. A wide plateau surrounds these two fortresses and hence the name Rajmachi (wide plateau). There is a small village named Udhewadi at the foot of forts. There are historical water reservoirs and ruins of fortifications, ramparts and gateways on both the forts. This fort played a strategic role in the First Anglo-Maratha war. The fort was built by the Satavahanas who established their kingdom soon after the Mauryan Dynasty came to an end and ruled the kingdom till 230 BC. The kingdom was recognised when it was conquered by Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj in 1657 from the ruler of Bijapur, Adil Shah. Under the rule of Shivaji, the Rajmachi fort was made defensive and a few structures were added for battalion purpose. It was under the rule of Mughals from 1704 to 1705 before the Marathas gained control after their fight with Aurangzeb. It was later taken over by the British when the Maratha Kingdom declined in the 19th century.

Rajmachi fort is a popular destination for nature lovers, trekkers and for outdoor campers. It is one of the most popular fort in the Lonavla - Karjat region because of the mesmerising views of waterfalls, lush green forests, meadows and silver clouds. Monsoon is the best time to visit this fort and get indulged with the natural beauty of mother earth. The height of the fort from sea level is approximately around 2700 feet. From such a height, amazing view of Sahyadri mountains and the backwaters of Shirota Dam can be observed amidst the cool and refreshing breeze. The mountain top also has a camping site GO. NEE. DA. WADI. This camping site is a Botanic park. There are numerous temples like temple of Kal Bhairava, a local deity lies between the two forts. There are also some ancient Buddhist caves which are present on the western side of Rajmachi plateau, which is known to be carved at around 200 BC. Rajmachi fort is endowed with an amazing natural beauty of deep and green forests.

HOW TO CONQUER THIS FORT !

Personal Transport
From Mumbai and Pune head towards Lonavla. Before Khandala Ghat take an exit diversion to Kunhe Gaon ( कुन्हे गांव ). This path will lead you to Udhewadi village which is the base of Rajmachi fort and is around 16 kms long. This village is also known as Rajmachi village. But the suppressing fact is that this muddy road is very uneven. This rough road will give you a driving adventure through puddles and dirt tracks. Skidding of vehicles in this region is very common as the roads are a river of mud. Make sure you take all safety precautions for your vehicle before leaving. many bikers use the 16km road for off-road biking. This road also has diversions and turns for the neighbouring villages. Ask any local resident whether you're travelling on the right path for RAJMACHI KILLA as there are other places with similar names and you can be easily misguided. Once at the Udhewadi village, both the forts are visible which show their pride and huge size. You can also walk on this path all the way from Lonavala to Udhewadi. It would take around 3 hours for novice ones with rest and ease to reach this place if you walk all the way from Lonavala to Udhewadi. From Udhewadi it takes more 1 hour to reach the fort top and enjoy the mesmerising scene at such a height which will give you a chill down the spine. Follow this map for proper navigation from Mumbai to Rajmachi.

My legs are my wheels
If you are a crazy adventurer and like trekking to forts, then this is the best place to analyse your limits. You can trek all the way from Kondiwade ( कोंडिवडे ) to Udhewadi. This is a tough stretch as compared to the earlier mentioned plain roads from Lonavala. You need to board the Karjat bound train and take public transport from Karjat station to Kondiwade. It would be better if you travel in group as the rickshaw or tum-tum driver asks for Rs. 300 to 400 as round-sum for this travel. These drivers drop you one village before kondiwade and you've got to negotiate with them to drop you at Kondiwade village instead. Once at kondiwade, the trek starts from some 15 mins from the village and makes you disappear into the woods. You tend to cross Mugape ( मुगापे ) and Kondhane ( कोंढाणे ) on the way to Rajmachi. Kondhane caves are the very famous caves which has 16 Buddhist caves. These caves were excavated in the 1st Century BC. It has two caves the Chaitya and the Vihara while the other two caves are just ruins at present. This trek takes you through the tranquil hidden landscapes of Maharashtra.

on Hire
You can also hire a sumo from Lonavala to the fort at the base price of Rs. 2500/- per day (includes return journey to Lonavala) or Rs. 1500/- for one way journey to the fort.

What to look for at Rajmachi?

Shriwardhan Fort
Manaranjan Fort
Kondhana Caves: These caves consists of intricate and delicate carvings of Buddhist Architecture. Although an earthquake in 19th century damaged some parts of the caves, the exisitng structures are worth seeing. The caves are furthermore enhanced by the sparkling waterfalls nearby. It is a sight never to be missed especially in monsoon.
Bhairavnath Temple: The temple displays architecture and design similar to that of the other Shiva temples of Konkan region. It is famous for mountaineering, trekking and fair mela. Bhairav, a manifestation of Lord Shiva, is the main deity of this old temple.
Mahadev Temple: A simple shiva temple built by the villagers to worship the god. The view form this temple is very scenic and covers a wide range from the hilltop.
Rajmachi Lake: This lake is positioned on the backdrop of scenic surroundings with lush greeneries. Night Photography with slow shutter creates a great picture with reflection at this lake.
Rajmachi Point (Lonavala Old Highway): Lying between Lonavala and Khandala, this place is a must visit in the beautiful hill station. It is a popular evening spot for guests to converge.