Sinhagad - A lion's tale

by - 3/18/2018 04:29:00 pm

HOW IT GOT IT'S NAME?

Previously named as Kondhana after the sage Kaundinya, the fort had been the site of many battles, most notably the Battle of Sinhagad in 1670 of Marathas. The Kaundinyeshwar temple coupled with the caves and carvings indicate that the fort had probably been built around 2000 years ago. Initially it was seized by Muhammad bin Tughlaq from the Koli in 1328 AD. Perched on an isolated cliff of the Bhuleshwar range in the Sahyadri Mountains, the fort is situated on a hill about 760 metres above ground and 1,312 metres above mean sea level. This fort saw attacks by Mughals in 1662, 1663 and 1665.

One of the most famous battles on Sinhgad was fought by Tanaji Malusare, a general of Chhatrapati Shivaji of the Maratha Empire in order to recapture the fort on March 1670. Tanaji Malusare, abandoned his son's wedding to meet with the summons of Maharaj Shivaji to conquer the fort. A steep cliff leading to the fort was scaled in the dead of the night with the help of a tamed monitor lizard named "Yashwanti", colloquially known as a ghorpad. Thereafter, A fierce battle ensued between Tanaji and his men versus the Mughal army headed by "Udaybhan Singh Rathod", a Rajput sardar who had control of the fort. Tanaji Malusare lost his life, but his brother "Suryaji" took over and captured the Kondana fort, now known as Sinhagad.

There is an anecdote that upon hearing of Tanaji's death, Chhatrapati Shivaji expressed his remorse with the words, "Gad aala, pan Sinha gela" - "The Fort is captured, but the Lion was lost". According to some the name sinhagad predates this event. A bust of Tanaji Malusare was established on the fort in the memory of his contribution to the battle.

The most preferred time to visit this fort is during the monsoon and in the early winter. The scenes in monsoon are much delightful to the eyes that are worth the memories taking back home. Winter is the season when you can witness the actual pride of this fort with its huge form allowing you to gaze it from a distance, which is not possible in monsoon. Also the sunrise and sunset can be enjoyed in winter along with the gradient sky and wild territories. 


A view from Kalyan Darwaja - Sinhagad

HOW TO CONQUER SINHAGAD?

Personal Transport
People often mention this fort worth visiting from Pune, which is very nearby. Well, I happen to visit Sinhagad by car. I was travelling from Mumbai along with my friends, all from Mumbai. We started the trip from Thane at 6 in the morning. Although, it was Sunday, I had to getup even before 'early morning' to make up to this trip. Gathering at Thane was quite comfortable to all as it was easily accessible to all my friends. 

It took around 3 hours for us to reach Pune City. Sinhagad is still 30 to 35 Kms away from this City. So make sure you have your breakfast in the city itself, because ‘city food’ is not an option at the mountaintop. 

Travelling towards the fort, we were stuck in the crawling traffic of Pune. It took more than an hour to clear the city and enter the forest area. The roads to this fort are very confusing and you can be misguided very easily. Follow maps with accuracy if you’re visiting this fort for the first time. Also make sure to confirm the maps with the residents of the region you’re travelling through. 

For great adventure and less perplexed travel to reach this fort (from Mumbai), note down the following guidance carefully, as the map may guide you and change your route according to the current traffic, but this route will take you to the fort with ease. While coming from Mumbai and when in Pune take exit at Warje flyover and take right from below the flyover onto NDA Road. Later take left turn at Kudja Khadakwasla link road and then right turn at Sinhagad Road. Now the main trick starts here. When on Sinhagad Road notice HP petrol pump on the way and don't take right (❌ Panshet Road) after the petrol pump. Go straight onto Donje Gaon road ✅ . This road splits into two, going straight will take you to 'Sinhagad Paytha Road' which makes you trek to the fort. You cannot take your car to the mountain top by this road. Going with the left split will take you to 'Sinhagad Ghat Road' which leads you to the mountain top and on this road you'll be asked for toll. Ultimately both the routes (ghat road and paytha road) meet at Pune Darwaja of the fort. 

Reaching this fort from Pune is not much of a big deal. You can travel via Sinhagad Road and then catch Sinhagad Ghat Road to join the above route. 

Once at the base you’ll be asked to pay Rs. 50 as toll (or entry fee) for the Fort. For two wheelers it’s just Rs. 20. If you don’t get such toll on your way, you need to correct your route, as you’re not on the right path. Well travelling through these roads in Monsoon could be little tricky as the roads are slippery & muddy and also have too much potholes. You cannot go through this ghat with more than 20kmph of speed, even in winter days. It’s that bad! But the drive to the fort is scenic. Sometimes the policemen at the toll gate check the vehicle for liquor, as liquor is banned at this place.

After a tiring 1 hour journey from base to the mountaintop, we took a sigh of relief. Well now it was a task to find a place to park your vehicle, if you’re visiting here on a weekend. Majority of the vehicles here are parked on the descending road from the hill as the parking area is too small and can accumulate some 75 - 100 cars only. Considering this, you need to reach here around 10 am to ‘safe park’ your vehicle. 

Public Transport 
Local buses are available every hour from Pune city to Aatekar Vasti (आटेकर वस्ती) . Once you reach Aatekar Vasti, you can either walk to the top or take a shared taxi. Shared taxi and auto services are available from the base to the top of the mountain.
Public transport is not reliable at these places, as they dump more than 10-15 people in a jeep and parcel you to the fort that too through such uneven roads where even walking is quite tiresome. If you're making a plan to visit this fort and you don't have a vehicle, it would be wise to book some online vehicles, which are easily available these days. 




My Legs are my Wheels
Trekkers and adventure lovers hit this place all with their feet doing the job for their body. The trek to this fort is mostly steep and straight up. The trek involves a one-way walk of 2.7 km (1.6 miles) over which the walker gains about 600 m (1950 feet) in elevation. Its a trek of moderate difficulty and a little risky, muddy and slippery during monsoon. To keep up the fire burning for trekking, you can visit this place without much difficulties. Experienced trekkers can climb the mountain in around 40 - 50 mins. But novice ones and beginners need to be cautious and to successfully climb the fort it could take around 2 hours for the same. The cold breeze will always motivate you and make you enthusiast to have fun and enjoy the nature while climbing the mountain. 



FOR THE FOODIE!
The place is accommodated with many villagers who offer you authentic natural desi food. Pitla Bhakri (पिटलं भाकरी) is the staple food and is offered to all the visitors. Maharashtrians very well know the dish, but if you're hearing this for the first time, you should not miss this dish. 


Pitla Bhakri - Thick gram flour spiced curry with traditional Jowar (Sorghum or new quinoa) bread


Kanda Bhajji, Guava, Sliced Mangoes, Berries. 
Apart from proper Maharashtrian authentic lunch, you can also munch around with other chewing options like boiled masala (spiced) corn, boiled salted groundnuts, berries, popcorn and some other stimulators for salivary glands. Crispy kanda-bhajji (Onions coated in seasoned batter and deep-friedwill make you savour the tastebuds in the natural ambience. Food sellers also provide you with mats to sleep around and laze in the glazing sun on the fort. People with families and school trips often visit here for historic importance of the place. The fort also houses a television tower of Doordarshan for broadcasting local TV signals. Currently, Non-Vegetarian food, Partying including alcoholic beverages and smoking is banned on the fort



WHAT TO LOOK FOR AT SINHAGAD?
Tanaji's Tomb
This place is mainly visited to embrace the bravery of Tanaji Malusare and relive the days of the past. There are two gates to enter the fort, the Kalyan Darwaza and the Pune Darwaza which are positioned at the south east and north-east ends respectively. The fort was also strategically located at the centre of a string of other Maratha occupied forts such as Rajgad FortPurandar Fort and Torna Fort. Points not to miss at this fort are - 
  • Tanaji Kada - It is told that this is the place from where Tanaji Malusare scaled this fort with the help of 'Yashwanti' 
  • Tanaji's Tomb - Built at the place where the warrior sacrificed his life for the conquer of this very fort. 
  • Kade LotIt is said that in olden days the prisoners were thrown off from this cliff as punishment instead of hanging. 
  • Hawa Point - This is the spot located in the North West of the Sinhagad fort and must visit spot if one visits this fort. The force of the wind blowing at this point is strong enough to make anyone stumble or at least difficult to walk. 
  • Dev TaakeA reservoir of sweet water that stores water naturally coming down from the mountain. Though it was meant to be edible, I found it to be littered by tourists. Not a thing to entertain when you witness it yourself. 
  • Kalyan Darwaaza - It is said that after conquering the fort, Shivaji Maharaj entered Sinhagad from this door. He realised that something sad has occurred and came to know that the warrior was no more. He was in tears at this very Kalyan Darwaja. This door also faces towards Kalyan (Not Kalyan of Thane District, Pune has its own Kalyan Village), hence it is named so. 
  • Zu Thur Buruj One of the prime watch towers of the fort which were once manned with cannons to protect invasions. These watchtowers were an important reason for Tanaji to have chosen the unpredictable path of invasion, via Tanaji Kada
  • Udaybhan Rathod Mrityu Sthal (उदय भान राठोड मृत्यु स्थळ) - Place where Udaybhan was killed by Mama Shelar. 



Other nearby places to visit include Khadakwasla, Varasgaon Dam, Torana Fort, Rajgad Fort and Panshet. Expenditure for two people to spend a day here is around Rs. 1000/- to Rs. 1500/-. Lokmanya Tilak resided in this fort during the freedom struggle of India against the British. There is a memorial with a cannon on both sides that marks the fact. Also a view of a huge reservoir held by one of the largest artificial structure, Khadakvasla Dam. Shore line near the Khadakvasla dam is an evening hangout spot for most of the locals and tourists. This place is an ideal place for photographers to capture the history of Empires that ruled the country. Many natural macros and landscapes are very appealing to eyes and can be attractive to photography enthusiasts. 

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